I just now realized that I didn’t just use arcs to mask other thinks. I also used them as a design element. which means I cant get rid of all the arcs and just use squares to. you’re right, I should probably start do design my watches with gimp.
I was about to prepare the screen shot I suggested. But when I wanted to center it, to crop for final size, I noticed the tick marks not being properly centered. Then I looked closer and discovered they were added in uneven sizes and positions (for example the thickness varies from 7 trough 7.5 to 8 pixels which cant be placed onto even pixel sized display without unevenly aliased sides). So Im sorry to say it, but the sharpnes would not be lost due to the screen shot image it self, but due to improper source elements. I still prepared it anyway.
petruuccios, you need to remember that they are not actual Tickmarks that he added, but all shapes he arranged to create the look of Tickmarks. Trying to move or resize any of those would be a definite nightmare
Might not be so bad. Maybe its still easier to repair it than do it again. Even if you add individual shapes, you still can size them equally and locate them symmetrically. Best from start, not do that by thumb.
Since facer work area is 320x320 and most watches have the display pixel number also an even number, it is preferable to scale all elements to be of even sizes in the direction in which they have to be symmetrical and centered. And since facer downscales every uploaded image it is even better to use sizes for images, that can be divided not just by 2 but even by 4.
Hello, first of all thank you for doing that. I didn’t expect everyone here to be so helpful and to even go out of their way to prepare the screenshot. To do the Tickmarks I used this Picture:
And then used Facer to add the Tickmarks by hand. So yes the’re probably not all centered perfectly.
And thanks to your screenshot I actually noticed a mistake on my watch. The Grey arc at the bottom of the Watch is on top of the 4th and 5th Tickmarck. This shouldn’t be like that and I just fixed it.
So thanks to Everyone for the great help. I will test the screenshot out to see if it is noticeable. If it’s not then I’m gonna leave it like that. I will definitely start to design my watches in Gimp or anything other than Facer itself.
I recommend Inkscape - it was completely new to me but thanks to just a few tutorials I quickly got a knack of it and it’s really simple and fun to create analog watch face elements.
Here are two videos that jump-started my journey with this software:
It’s a vector graphic software so it’s very powerful in the sense that the size of the output is not dependent on the size of the image. You can have 640x640 and export it as 1280x1280 and there will be no loss in quality as all objects will be rendered and output to the desired size. Not to mention any work like cutting holes in objects to create masks also returns high-quality output due to the same render-at-output technique.
Here are a few of my faces that couldn’t have been done as easily, and with as high quality of output images, if it wasn’t for this cool software:
Above, the three discs with hours, minutes and seconds (as well as their markers) have been created. Same goes for day/month names following circular path
And here’s an example of classic analog face. all the markers were done with Inkscape as well.
This, on the other hand, is what I was able to do in GIMP. Check out the BG layer (inspection is enabled) and zoom in on it - you’ll see pixels left after cutting out marker holes - something that is not a problem in Inkscape.
Don’t get me wrong, though, GIMP is so much better and advanced at layer mixing and applying different opacity effects that it has its own place.
Hope this helps in streaming out work so you get better results with less effort