I’m trying to add more depth and realism to my faces, especially the analog ones. What do you think?
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You’ve definitely nailed the depth Sir, nice work 
(I can see it’s still a “work in progress” so I won’t comment on anything else 
)
Go ahead and comment, you may be seeing something I’ve overlooked. You stare at something long enough you lose perspective and detail. (Can’t see the forest for the trees syndrome.)
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Okey dokey Sir: I just thought your little dials were quite unclear. I can make out that they’re Power and Steps from the Icons, but I can’t really see much else there sorry
I was thinking the same thing, but I wasn’t sure how to address it yet. I had to stop working on it and take time away to get a fresh look at it. I had an eye exam a week ago and needed a change in lenses. I sent my glasses in to get the new lenses added and am working with my old back-up glasses. That’s causing me to have eye strain so I’m going without any glasses, but that’s not ideal either.
Here comes a response…
Hold on…
Well, someone was typing lol
I am not good at making such, but always prefer watch faces with depth.
If I may suggest something, if it does not rise power consumption, why not add the shades to the dim mode too?
It’s part of my OCD that keeps me from that. I consider AOD to be kind of like night time and obviously there are no shadows at night. The other part is that Samsung watches I’ve read are limited to 30% in AOD mode so I go as easy as I can because of that.
Go back up to the top and take a look now. I had a “happy little accident” when enlarging the background for the steps and battery gauges. I made them larger intending to move them more inward, but seen they came right to the edge of the tic mark ring and looked pretty good that way I just left them there. I now believe it is plenty readable for everyone.
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That makes sense (btw. AoD in Samsung’s watch face tool GWD is limited to 15% on pixel ratio).
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Mr Antisocial Sir, you’ve nailed the Dials now mate, great job, I can even see the Tickmarks now as well 
Look closely at the outer edge of your inner grey patterned circle now, where it meets the black ring - I think you just need to tweek the diameter of that main central circle, as I can see edges showing (unless of course that is intentional)
Thanks, but that makes it even harder to hit… 
I was trying to define the edge better but I used black instead of the lighter grey colors. I’ll lighten it up a little hopefully to still define and edge, but not show up so obviously.
“TEN MINUTES LATER”
I’ve lightened it up a little and it’s not jumping out at you so much. The funny thing is it’s only 1 pixel wide. The outer radius is 112.5 and the inner radius is 111.5. I never thought that one single pixel could be so noticeable.
depth, through lighting and shadows is where the most fun is imo! One thing you can do which will instantly improve the effect is ditch the built in shadow tool and make your own shadow layers with soft edges. Then you can also manipulate the relative height of each element be each shadows respective offset and opacity. Make sure you imagine a light source and treat everything consistently relative to that.
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I’ve been doing that for a while with analog watch hands, but I’ve been trying to do that with other things also. I’ve even tried shadows with the gyro effect which works great on my WearOS watches and fails miserably on my Samsungs. The WearOS works just like a shadow, but the Samsung just moves a little then snaps back to the starting point.
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@mrantisocialguy Very nice finished project Sir, I see it all works really well together, and looks pretty neat too…good job
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AccerometerRaw does not snap back but it is jittery on my Samsung Active. Gyro processed is useful but the Axies are at 90 and that gets stuck. On Samsung it can only be used for fun. It will spoil a nice Watch.
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I’ve pretty much quit using it because of that. Occasionally I’ll use it to rotate the shimmer on an analog watch face background but that’s about the only thing I use it for now.
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Yeah . MAG that is the conclusion I have come to . I am using Gyro to switch on a Data Back that takes several forms. I am going to give that up soon . I think I will spend some time to get into some decent Rendering . These Gadget Watches I am working on get about 2 Sync a month : )
$(320-(160+clamp(4*(gyroX()),-110,110)))<=60?100:0$
X for Y axis.
I like how the hands look “cel shaded”
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