I’ve come across those who not just want, but who need an easy to read watch. my first retro-design LCD had a pretty good success, so I thought I’d make a large digit retro LCD. Having large digits doesn’t leave a lot of space for other complications, so this came out quite plain and minimalist – the battery level is absolutely obligatory just to make the watch’s functionality useful, and I balanced it with day of month on the opposite side.
Looks good - but for me it looks a bit unbalanced- it needs a leading zero imho. (It’s 09:29 when writing) I’m not sure but don’t most ‘real’ digital watches have leading zeros? I like the style though and i am trying to replicate the LCD background you have!
Thanks! I couldn’t use the builtin-in LCD font or any of the ones I already had: since they’re all rectangular, I was limited on how large I could make hours/minutes, so I needed a tapered font. I saw a cushion-shaped font in a photo I found, so I loosely based this on that one and made it myself.
It was a rather awful “hack” of an experience, I had never dealt with making a font. And this case was particularly tricky because it absolutely had to be a fixed-width font to be a “properly functioning” 7-segment font. It took a week to finally get there, I went through 4 different font creators until I found one that I could hack my way through and that worked for me (Font Forge Windows app). But the font came out too fat! So… I ended up making a narrower version also-- regular for seconds/date/battery, narrow for hours/minutes. I took an existing 7-segment font and hacked it in Font Forge to get what I needed.
I went back and forth on the leading zero, but looking at photos of LCD watches from the 1970’s, almost none had a leading zero so I left it off to make it more retro. But you’re right, it’s lop-sided without it, and since I wanted it to be a realistic LCD layout, I couldn’t just center the text.
I forgot- you’re a retro king!
What’s the difference between a good designer and an average one? A good designer (like yourself) - the more work you put in the better it looks. An average (in my case less than average) designer the more work you put in the worse it looks!
Oh don’t sell yourself short. I’m just a decent re-creator — remember, most of my faces are recreations of real-life old watches, I just do the “mechanical work” and recreate them in Photoshop. From my 102 published faces, only 15 are original designs while the rest are re-creations! On the other hand, most everybody else including you creates original designs.
Wow . I have not Read through the Complete specification Yet . Sadly that Divers Bezel is too big for me . I fell in love with the Flieger when I saw it . I might have been shown one as a Kid or saw it on a museum . You really go in Deep . I must read the,Spe I wonder if the,Font is Specified .
Have to say that looks a bit busy for my taste and based on my own service.
This is what I was issued with back in the 80’s (and I have produced a loose replica) and is co-incidentally more to my taste.
I have yet to see anything about fonts in the spec, except for the height, pitch, and line thickness having been called out on the first figure.
Financial issues caused me to drop Pro, maybe by summer I’ll start it again. So until then none of that stuff unfortunately, although, I would say that it would be counter-productive anyway, since (based on my own faces) tremendously fewer people would have downloaded it as opposed to a free version. In either case, and for the most part, I’ve been leaving out adjustable bezels from dive watches because it’s useless if it’s not functional (back to Pro issues), and besides, it makes the rest of the dial smaller. Excluding it effectively enlarges the dial.
Back then I paused it because it appeared that only Benrus and Marathon manufactured it, and they’re both current active companies (I try to stick to defunct companies). But later on I realized the military specs are public domain, and I can use those exacting specs to build faces from.