Second hand moving with 12 ticks per second?

Hi @ll.

I want to achieve a second hand movement from an realistic automatic watch.

It´s a fast ticking.

I know that the formula (round(#DWFSS#)) can achieve 6 ticks per seconds but this is not fine enogh for my purpose.

I would like to have 12 ticks per seconds or - even better - a formula where i can decide the number of tickings between a second.

Anyone an idea?

Greetings, GAUSS:

The seconds for sure has to stay the same…

@ThaMattie already found a cool solution which works perfectly:

(round(#DWFSS# * 2) / 2)

Thank you!

@GAUSS & @lucky.andrei I just put that expression into a test watch and synced it with my TicWatch C2 I use for testing and sent it to my Samsung S3 Frontier and it ran it perfectly in both of them. That expression should be golden across the board!

For when someone wants something other than 12:
(round(#DWFSS#*X/6)/X*6) where X is the ticks per second.
So for 9 ticks per second: (round(#DWFSS#*9/6)/9*6), etc


Great work dudes!!!

I just tried a variation of that in a mechanical watch face I’m working on, but I went for 2 tics per second. It gives an interesting “mechanical” feel to the face.

MAG 1294


You Guys are Amazing.
I spent half last night trying to come up with a split second. Looking at the Electro Mechanical Clock on the early Soyuz. So I need a half second . I will have to give in and have 24 at the top of the 24hr face.
Thanks so much to you all .
Still the same team helping everyone out there.


Sorry to revive an old topic… I ran quite a few experiments when I first needed something similar, I wanted 4 ticks per second to mimic an actual vintage movement I was recreating. One of the answers I came up with was using the modulo expression like this:

  • 2 ticks/sec: (#DWFSS# - #DWFSS#%3)
  • 4 ticks/sec: (#DWFSS# - #DWFSS#%1.5)

These work, and they at least “appear” to involve less math for the watch to process, but… the 4 ticks/sec seems to lag on a face with several other complications on it. Mind you, I have an original Samsung Galaxy Watch, so it might be the older/slower CPU, I don’t know.

Has anyone else tried modulo in this scenario?


I have found that anything that gets near Smooth is prone to glitches. I think there is an issue if the memory overhead of the face is high. I would guess tha Modulo is less demanding but the only way is to test it. Great Fun having a face with 6 different second on it. The face I wear normally is quite top heavy and even half a second tick looks Glitchy on that.

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Hi, for 4 ticks a second I used (floor(#Dsm#*4)/4*6) - one for each tickmark
It seems the preview has trouble with it somtimes not runing completely smooth. It can also interfere with the watch screen refresh rate, that used to be 15FPS on Samsung watches. So maybe 3 or 5 ticks would look better.


In the old days of Film the called that Strobing. The lighting Camera Man worked it out. Now days they just Shoot it and look at the Playback 10 seconds later. Never thought of that. Great Stuff as always. Learn something every day.


Now I’m going to say something that’s either brilliant or stupid. Since you have only three of the smallest tics between the next larger tics, you are working with 1/4 second, secondhand movement per tic. If you were using the stock facer tics it would be 1/5th second movements of the hand and you would need five tics per second.


Interesting. Both the ROUND and FLOOR methods posted above run smoother than using the MODULO method I posted above-- that one lags for me on a face that has 8 other rotating complications.
(on an older original SGW, that is)


Just a heads up, If you update the original Galaxy watch or the S3 to the latest version Facer will become unstable on the Galaxy and near unusable on the S3. I have both and I ended up removing Facer from the S3. The Galaxy will run it fine for a few hours and then ends up becoming very laggy or will restart Facer when you try to see the time. @icrltd4 has experienced similar problems with his Galaxy 1 after it updated.


You are right, I wanted the hand to stop on the marks. I picked 4 steps on purpose. To me the smallest stock ticks seem either too small as dots or too dense as lines.


Exactly as @mrantisocialguy said, my original SGW1 updated and afterwards had intermittent problems with Facer every day. Solely because of that, I sold it cheap and got the newer GW4 instead, without any problems, and now I absolutely love it :smiley:


Oh my! A watch face and finger selfie! :laughing:


At least the Gremlin isn’t giving the finger


BEAUTIFUL :eyes: This helped me a lot. Ingenious tip. :+1: